On Monday at 7am, we headed to the airport. 26 hours and 4 flights later, we landed in Cusco, Peru. 16 hours later, we were picked up in a van and off to our first trek: The Salkantay Trek. Also known as The Savage Mountain Trek to Machu Picchu.
We would hike for 3 days and then spend the 4th in Machu Picchu. Our hike began at 12,000 feet and tops out at just over 15,200. None of us had hike at this altitude so it was going to be interesting.
The trekking company had obviously done this before because day 1 had only 700 feet of elevation. After about 3 minutes at 12,000 feet, I was grateful we were not carrying our gear just a small day pack. I never asked Brooke what it cost but it was worth every penny.
This trek is incredibly popular. Even at the start there were 50 people. It was nice to be in a group of 9, 5 people from San Francisco, 1 from Spain, and the 3 of us. After introduction and a quick scan of the 50 other people, Jim and I realize we were definitely the oldest people here and the majority were half our age.
When we began hiking, I was quickly aware of the lack of oxygen. But as we turned the first corner of the trail and saw our first snow covered peak, everything seemed ok. At least for a second.
Our hike into our first camp was short. 3 or 4 miles. I am sure this in just to get you past the shock and for them to assess the group.
We arrived the Sky Camp in just over 2 hours. One of the coolest camping structures I had ever seen.
We were each assigned our sleeping structure. When we opened the door, we found an incredibly spacious room, complete with a desk.
We had lunch and an hour nap. Only downtime of the entire 4 day trek.
In the afternoon, we hiked up to Humantay Lake. It was only 1,200 feet above sky camp but felt like 3,000.
We wondered around the lake, taking pictures for about an hour.
When we regroup with our guide, he told us about the Inca’s and their beliefs about mountain, lakes, and rivers: the lake being an eye and the rivers being it’s tears. Since our guide was a descendent of the Inca’s, we were blessed with Incan stories and a few Incan rituals. He even spoke Incan.
Night at the Sky Camp was beautiful. The dooms were clear to the sky yet private from the sides. I could have stayed here for a week.
We were up at 4:15 the next day. Awaken by Nico, our guide, knocking on our door and bringing us hot coca tea. A ritual we all got used to very fast.
We were given only 30 minutes to pack up and be at breakfast. 30 minutes later, we were headed up to Salkantay Pass, 15,213 feet.
We would need to do 2,400 feet of elevation gain over only 5 miles. The trail was steep and the air was thin. Nico was very good at going 300 feet and then breaking so we could breathe. Then going for the next 300 feet. Finding lots of spots for us to stop and take pictures which definitely took your mind off the thin air.
The trail was full of hikers, support crew, and horses. The only way to get our gear and support staff (ie. Our amazing chefs) to the next camp was via this trail.
There was actually comfort in having so many people around you. If something went wrong, there would be a whole lot of help which some people did but thankfully no one in our group
Just before the pass, we took a long break in a beautiful meadow.
It was weird to think this spot was higher than Mount Rainer.
We were only 600 feet and half a mile to the pass but it took us 45 minutes. Granted, we stopped along the way for Nico to tell us about an Incan ritual that took place only in the summer. We would be performing the ritual at the pass so we all needed to pick a rock that spoke to us and carry it up the mountain. Just what we wanted more weight.
But when we arrived the pass and performed the ritual, I totally teared up.
Our chef had left us a thermos of coca tea. So after several cups, we were all off to take pictures.
For a time, you forgot all about how thin the air was.
Our trekking company rewarded us with teeshirts so we had to take a group photo.
Finally, it was time to head down into the cloud forest which is just next to the Amazon Rainforest. From the pass, we could see off into the heart of the Andes Mountains and the Amazon Rainforest.
The trek down to camp would involve a 6,000 foot drop over 12 miles. Good thing, we would have a nice lunch break halfway down. It’s amazing how much you can get done before lunch when you get up at 4am.
After lunch, the country side got very green and lush.
The next 3 hours of hiking went very fast since Brooke and I finally had clear heads (getting used to the altitude) and could catch up on everything in her life. The miles go fast when you are in a conversation.
Our accommodations for tonight were the Andean Huts. Complete with hot showers for $3. Needless to say, I was first in line. I hadn’t showered since I left home.
The huts were not as fancy or fun as the Sky Camp but they were nicer than tents which comfortable mattresses and soft pillows. At this point, I could have slept any where.
Since our group hiking speed was over all fast (don’t know the last time I was considered fast), we were allowed to sleep in until 5:30. Breakfast at 6. Hiking by 6:30.
Off we went into the cloud forest but not before we got a beautiful view of the hillside village we had spent last night in.
We spent most of the next 4 hours hiking along the Salkantay River.
Eventually the river would flow into the Amazon.
We passed through several small villages.
Crossed the river several times.
Before we came to a lovely picnic area. It was here that we would be picked up by a van. The trek we were on can be done as a 4 day or 5 day. Since we were on the 4 day, we needed a method of transportation to skip the last several miles of hiking.
The van dropped us off at the train station heading into Machu Picchu. From here, the rest of the group went on to hike another 4 hours into Aguas Calientes. I opted to pay $40 and take the train. We have 2 more weeks of trekking. I could use a rest. And tomorrow we are up at 3am so we can be on the first bus into Machu Picchu…. Stay Tuned
———— Complete Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ———
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